| Campesinos working the land or tending flocks in | | | | Oaxacan string cheese), mushrooms, squash |
| the river valleys and hills of the Sierra Norte | | | | blossoms and more. On the other side unfolds the |
| would stop, fish for trout, or perhaps gather | | | | curious convention. A substantial helping of your |
| lobster-like langostinos after the first rains in May, | | | | choice of raw, medium sized shrimp, red snapper, |
| and then cook their bounty in an unusual way. | | | | or a combination of the two is placed in a |
| They would place their catch in a half-gourd filled | | | | jícara (the half gourd) with a selection of |
| with river water and freshly picked aromatic | | | | chiles, onion and leafy herbs including requisite |
| herbs, heat rocks from the banks to red-hot, | | | | cilantro. A blender off to the side is used to |
| then place them in the bowl and watch their meal | | | | prepare a tomato-based liquid which is then |
| quickly poach in a boiling broth. | | | | poured into each vessel. With the aid of a large |
| Caldo de Piedra, located a few minutes outside of | | | | wooden tong, a couple of baseball sized river |
| Oaxaca on the highway leading to Santa | | | | stones are plucked from a flaming fire pit, gingerly |
| María el Tule, ceremoniously replicates the | | | | placed in each gourd, and voilá, your meal |
| age-old custom before your eyes. The restaurant | | | | starts to boil. Rocks are added a second time, |
| is a large, simple palapa with an open kitchen. The | | | | following which each comida-in-a-pot is brought to |
| menu is effectively non-existent since all that is | | | | the table. |
| served are generously filled quesadillas and similar | | | | Flavors remain distinctly discernible to the |
| appetizers, your choice of three soups (the | | | | extreme, given that fresh ingredients are |
| caldos), and non-alcoholic beverages. | | | | combined on the spot. The chef/proprietor is in |
| The owners boast that this traditional meal | | | | complete control of process so as to assure the |
| preparation dates to pre-Hispanic times, and was | | | | proper degree of doneness (with only one |
| practiced in their home village, San Felipe Usila, in | | | | cooking method and a choice of only three main |
| the district of Tuxtepec. | | | | dishes, it's pretty well guaranteed). It's low-fat |
| Service is uncharacteristically fast. Waitresses are | | | | protein, herbs, vegetable and tortilla, yielding ideal |
| eager to attend to orders, and more importantly | | | | fare for the diet and health conscious, in a region |
| answer all queries about your comida's | | | | of the state noted for pretty well the opposite ... |
| preparation, so be sure to ask to go over to the | | | | and they even serve coca light (diet coke). It's all |
| two kitchen areas to bear witness to the | | | | so simple, making the experience gastronomically |
| procedural pomp. On the one side are women | | | | rewarding, while at the same time awe inspiring. |
| working over metate (grinding stone) and comal | | | | NOTES: |
| (large round clay "stove-top" used for cooking | | | | Open daily, noon to 7 pm. |
| over an open flame), hand-making tortillas for | | | | Price with beverage and shared appetizers, 125 |
| filling with your choice of quesillo (the famed | | | | pesos pp. |
